Traditional Baked Stuffing This recipe was handed down by my great-grandmother. It is a family favorite that we make every Thanksgiving Sauteed Parsnips and Carrots with Honey and Rosemary. Creamy Potato and Leek Gratin Cutting leeks into large pieces they almost dissolve when thinly sliced gives them a presence equal Cinnamon Oat Crumble Topping This crunchy crumble is the perfect topping for an ice cream sundae, easy apple crumble, or our Build-Your-Own Cranberry Apple Crumble Pie.
Apple Crisp Perfect and Easy I adapted this from a year-old peach crisp recipe. Although it works well with peaches, it works even Apple Crisp II A simple dessert that's great served with ice cream. Easy Meatloaf This is a very easy and no fail recipe for meatloaf. It won't take long to make at all, and it's quite Best Chocolate Chip Cookies Crisp edges, chewy middles. World's Best Lasagna It takes a little work, but it is worth it. Basic Homemade Bread If you'd like to learn how to bake bread, here's a wonderful place to start.
This easy white bread recipe The Best Canning Salsa This is a great use for tomatoes from the garden and nothing tastes better than homemade.
Best Steak Marinade in Existence This is a family recipe that has been developed only over the last 5 years. In this short time it's made Easy Coleslaw Dressing A creamy coleslaw dressing that can be made with ingredients you already have! You can pour it immediately Grandma's Baked Beans My mother has made these beans for years.
This recipe pairs nicely with my macaroni salad recipe! The Best Pizza Dough This easy pizza dough recipe is the key to making an extraordinary homemade pizza. We use all-purpose Fresh rosemary and thyme The Best Steak Marinade We use this marinade for rib steaks, but can be used for almost any cut of beef.
Judging from the weathered look of this Best Hamburger Ever These burgers are the best on the grill in the summertime. Jam-packed with all kinds of stuff, and no Number one: Don't use chips; It is deceptively simple, Home Style Meatloaf When it's comfort that you seek, nothing satisfies quite like a classic meatloaf. And if you don't have Kate's Lemon Squares. Louie's famous Italian sammie I can't take credit for this one, darn Runup distributions of waves breaking on slopes.
Google Scholar. Carrier, G. Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach. Journal of Fluid Mechanics , 4 : 97— CrossRef Google Scholar. Emery, K. Swash and swash mark. Transactions, American Geophysical Union , 32 : 31— Hughes, M. The beach face. In Short, A. John Wiley and Sons, pp. Waves are created by energy passing through water , causing it to move in a circular motion.
Wind-driven waves, or surface waves, are created by the friction between wind and surface water. As wind blows across the surface of the ocean or a lake, the continual disturbance creates a wave crest. The swash zone is located at the landward edge of the surf zone on the upper part of the beach profile that is subjected to inundation Fig.
It is where incoming surf zone waves force oscillatory motion of the shoreline land—sea boundary at a variety of frequencies, typically greater than 0. Backwash waves are nothing but counter or reverse waves that move toward the ocean instead of traveling toward the coast.
A backwash wave may be dangerous to beachgoers who are not comfortable in high surf or turbulent seas but are also a rare and unusual wave riding opportunity for surfers. Rainfall produces four types of soil erosion: splash erosion, sheet erosion, rill erosion, and gully erosion. Splash erosion describes the impact of a falling raindrop, which can scatter tiny soil particles as far as.
The South West of Britain is affected by waves that have an incredibly long fetch, as the South Westerly winds which blow the sea there travel uninterrupted for thousands of miles across the Atlantic Ocean. It is for this reason that the waves are large in Cornwall and generally great for surfing!
Headlands are characterised by high, breaking waves, rocky shores, intense erosion, and steep sea cliff. Headlands and bays are often found on the same coastline. A bay is flanked by land on three sides, whereas a headland is flanked by water on three sides. When a wind- or swell-wave arrives at the beach face it causes a nearly instantaneous acceleration of the shoreline to its maximum velocity , termed the initial swash velocity.
As a result of this impulse the shoreline climbs the beach with a velocity that decreases toward zero at a roughly constant rate. The swash zone is the upper part of the beach between backbeach and surf zone, where intense erosion occurs during storms Figure 2. The swash zone is alternately wet and dry. Infiltration hydrology and sediment transport by swash motion are important factors that govern the gradient of the beachface.
The backwash scours out the beach as moves back down towards the sea scraping with it and picking up material as it goes. When a wave has a strong swash and a weak backwash the beach will build up and often become steep. The movement of the material is known as longshore drift. Waves approach the coast at an angle because of the direction of prevailing wind.
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